Expensive repair!! Control arm bushings and struts

Brake last depending on your driving style and if you go 80k you did good . A lot of people replace the soft rubber in the control arms with urethane, I am not sure what we are talking about when it comes to the strut towers. I would call Zahntech http://zahntechauto.com/ or how do you feel about doing it yourself (All these things can be done at Pat's)?

Edited by johnf36 - April/17/10 at 11:56pm

I aslo have an R53 and do all my own maintenance (128k miles)I'll do the labor when you get the parts. I have access to the Navy hobby shop car lifts in Smokey Point and the the 8 lifts in the hobby shop on Ft. Mccord.

Koolblu needs brakes already!??!  The Parades must be taking a vicious toll on the Cabriolet.

S.

A good bump could crack the rubber on the strut bushing.  But by your mileage, the rubber on both the control arm bushings and strut bushings is getting old.  We've seen control arm bushings need replacing at 30K.

Way's looked like the whole thing - what (who is M&M) does M&M have?

Here are the damper bushings http://www.waymotorworks.com/powerflex-supercharger-belt-damper-polyurethane-bushing.html

I'm long out of any warranties, but I'm not sure if this would be covered under any kind of warranty because they called it "wear-and-tear." 

 

My service is all done and it came to $1966.    I also had a leaky valve gasket that they replaced for me at no charge - I think they took pitty on me.  LOL 

I took my 05 in for an oil change and they notified me that I needed to do that replacement I had 60k, luckily when I bought the car I bought an extended warranty, ended up costing $202 including the oil change.

MiniMel -

 

Sorry to hear about your dilemma.   I too have had an expensive repair come up recently (two days ago) and I've only just reached 59,000 miles on my 2006 MCS (with a build date of Aug. 2006).  It is currentyly in the shop at Seattle MINI getting it's throttle body and wiring harness replaced to the tune of $1,420 (before taxes and the 15% PSMINI club member discount).  It is said that the damage was due to humidity/corrosion from water (?).  I have cleaned the engine compartment a time or two, but I didn't think I got it that wet.   

 

I'm still on the original brakes, but I know I'll be needing those soon (along with rotors).  You did really well if you have the stock brakes with 84,000 miles.  I've heard the control arm bushings will wear but it seems it varies from MINI to MINI and driver to driver.  Again, sorry to hear about the expenditure you're going through right now. 

i think they mentioned last time i bought the car in for service that i will need them soon, and will know when they go (i think i recall them saying i will hear a "thunk" when i turn).  my car has about 108k, but we bought it higher mileage anyways :)

Thanks for the info, Pat! I will pass it on to Jared.  Are brakes difficult to do? He is mechanically handy (especially with his 77 ford bronco), me not so much, lol 

lol! please do give him the hard side! i will pass along the message - thanks a bunch, i really appreciate it :)

Hi, Jared:

Use some WD-40 or Kroil on the torx bolt.  I have an impact screwdriver that gets a fair amount of use on brake jobs.

The front caliper pistons need to be just pushed back into the caliper - no turning like the rears.  Harbor Freight sells a brake piston set for about $30, and there is a size that fits the rears just fine.

I don't know about the Duralast rotors.  You probably don't want to hear this, but the last time I picked up some rotors from someone other than NAPA or someone like Mini Mania or Moss Motors, I ended up with big time warping problems.  The store's response - "Oh - they all do that".  For an extra $15 or $20, I walk by Shucks and Autozone.  That said, the rotors will probably be just fine.

You should plan on replacing the sensor as well.  I haven't seen one survive the removal from the old pads yet - they really get glued in there.  The easiest way to do that is take out the fender liner, unless you have a lift to get the car up so you can reach in behind the partially removed liner.

Last, if it has been over a year for a fluid flush, you should consider doing that as well.

I am going to do Jo's brakes (wife's car) Saturday afternoon if you want to come watch/help - probably be done with everybody else's cars (rear sway bar around noon, oil change at 2) around 3:30 or 4.  Come on over!

Pat


Edited by onramp - May/20/10 at 7:58pm

I got lucky with my sensors, as long as the they have not set off the indicator they are still good. but as Pat points out it is a 50/50 crap shoot. You will need one for the front and one for the rear, as far as cost your going to pay about 14 bucks, if you don't get them on line I think the only place I saw them was O'Reilly's.  Pat is one of the most knowledgeable people here when it comes to different kinds of pads,rotors and fluids. He has helped many of the people here with their brakes and seen most of the problems that come with working on Mini brakes. You might take him up on his offer if for any reason just to here a few of his great stories.

John

Hi,